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WWII History: The topic of Dieppe has figured strongly in issues of the Bulletin over the years. One of the club's oldest serving units, the QOCHOC, represents a unit that fought with particular distinction at the battle. Dieppe is also a singular event in the history of WWII, an isolated battle that was not part of any campaign. It was also an unmitigated disaster, despite the heroic efforts of the Canadian and British troops who fought there. A great deal has been written about the battle, the reasons for its failure, and the lessons it may have taught the Allies when the next invasion of France took place in June 1944. This article is aimed at the modern tourist visiting the site of the battle along with the Canadian cemetery located inland where the casualties from the raid are buried. |
Dieppe Revisited
By: Wes D.
3rd Para Bde. (NWHA)
This battle was hopeless. As soon as you get out of your car in t village of Dieppe there is on question of the raid ever having succeeded. It is sheer madness to imagine that infantry could storm this defended location.
Reading histories of the Dieppe attack leads you into a series of 'what ifs', into arguments for and against certain methods, disagreement about who was at fault and what should have been changed. But once at the site it is the geography that silences all else.
Dieppe Beach with Cliffs Beyond
The village of Dieppe is nestled into the edge of the French coast of Normandy. Towering cliffs rise above the village on either side, hundreds of feet high. A long, flat beach leads into the bowl that cups the town itself, offering no cover or feature, besides a long, low seawall that braces the village from high seas.
In 1942 the town was not too much different. Its built up about 50 yards closer to the beach, and the large casino that was stuck out all alone in the middle of the bowl out towards the water has been torn down. Today a large municipal swimming pool marks the spot.
Dieppe Beach
One thing that seems to have changed permanently are the Canadian flags that seem to fly from every house and shop, inside and out. The cafes and bars are filled with wartime photos of Canadian troops and more recent pictures from reunions. This isn't a marketing ploy, its genuine. As with all sites in Normandy the people there take care of the memorials and cemeteries with infinite care.
The water appears to drop quickly off, and the pull seems strong though. The sea is a soft green colour with little surf, and surprisingly warm. It may seem foolish, but you can't help but hope that this was some comfort to the wounded or dieing who may have spent agonizing moments here.
Dieppe Chateau from the Beach Below
The casualties at Dieppe were terrible, far worse than those suffered at the bitterly opposed landing at Omaha Beach nearly two years later. All told, there were nearly 4000 casualties, including 1874 taken prisoner. The number of prisoners is deceiving. These men didn't give up, they just couldn't be evacuated. The beach was so hot that the navy was pulled out.
The severity of the fighting is illustrated by the loses of the Essex Scottish regiment, one of the lead infantry elements into Dieppe. Of 553 men who went in there were 530 casualties, 382 of which were prisoners. Only 51 returned to England, half of which were wounded.
The beach itself is hardly deserving of the name. While broad and deep, it is unusual in that it is completely made of stones, not a sight of sand anywhere. The rocks range in size from a pebble to a golf ball, all rounded from the surf and hard as nails. It is difficult to even walk with boots on, I was too embarrassed to try and run.
The Rocks on the Beach
It's well-known how this beach stopped the tanks cold. The armored support for the raid was to be provided by the Churchill tanks of the Calgary Highlanders. None left the beach. Their tracks churned through the rocks, digging deeper down and never getting a solid grip to move up, until the German guns destroyed them all.
Over the main beach, above the town on the high cliffs that make up the southern 'rim' of the bowl, is a medieval fortress. It dominates the entire area, and the modern scars of firing pits and bunkers built into the walls make it clear what its purpose was in 1942.
View of the Beach from the Chateau
The cliffs too are pocked with casements and fortified caves. These held machineguns and light artillery that could rake every inch of the beach. When you climb to the top of the cliffs and look down you just can't believe it. The German defenders must have been surprised that anyone would choose this location. You are looking down into a bowl with only one outlet, and to reach it those exposed little dots below would have had to cross several hundred yards of flat ground.
German Casement
| Please see the following page composed of photographs from the Canadian military cemetery at Dieppe. |
